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Buying Secondhand Margaret Howell: What to Look For
Margaret Howell is one of the better-kept secrets on the secondhand market. The brand has been making well-constructed, understated British clothing since the 1970s, and the secondary market has not fully caught up with what that actually means in terms of quality. Buyers who know Jil Sander or The Row often walk past Margaret Howell pieces that are comparable in construction and considerably cheaper. The main line uses fabrics and finishing that hold up well over time, and the cuts are conservative enough that nothing looks obviously dated. The main thing to understand before buying is the difference between the mainline and MHL, the diffusion label, which are frequently conflated on resale platforms.
Margaret Howell Mainline vs MHL: What is the Difference on the Secondhand Market?
MHL by Margaret Howell is a diffusion line, stocked heavily in Japan and at lower price points. The fabrics are simpler, the construction is less involved, and the pieces were priced significantly lower new. On eBay, MHL and mainline pieces are regularly listed without distinction, sometimes mislabeled in either direction. The labels are different — mainline pieces read 'Margaret Howell' while diffusion pieces read 'MHL by Margaret Howell' — but listings often omit this detail or bury it. If you are buying for quality rather than just the aesthetic, check the label photo before bidding. Mainline pieces in wool flannel or cotton Oxford are the ones worth tracking down.
The Margaret Howell Work Jacket and Shirts: Best Secondhand Buys
The shirts are probably the single strongest secondhand proposition Margaret Howell makes. Her Oxford cloth and linen shirts use fabric weights and weaves that are hard to find at this quality outside of a handful of Japanese makers, and the fit — a relaxed, slightly dropped shoulder with a boxy body — has been consistent enough across seasons that sizing is predictable once you know it. The Work Jacket, a structured cotton or linen piece that sits somewhere between a casual jacket and a heavy overshirt, is similarly worth finding used. It is a design that has changed little across years and the construction holds up. Check collar and cuff edges on older shirts for wear, particularly on light-colored linens, as these are the first areas to show use.
Margaret Howell Sizing and Fit Guide for Men
The fit across Margaret Howell menswear is intentionally relaxed and boxy, which can read as oversized to buyers used to slimmer European tailoring. This is not a sizing inconsistency — it is the design. A size medium in a Margaret Howell shirt will have more room across the chest and a lower shoulder seam than most comparable European pieces at the same stated size. Measuring the actual garment and comparing to your own measurements is the most reliable approach. Japanese-market pieces, which appear frequently on eBay, sometimes run slightly smaller than UK or European market equivalents, so checking the tag and the measurements together is worth doing.