The Merino glossary

Fibre from the alpaca, a South American camelid related to the llama. Typically 18–30 microns depending on grade; finer than most sheep's wool but coarser than cashmere. Naturally hollow, which makes it lighter and warmer relative to its weight. Huacaya (fluffy) and Suri (silky, draping) are the two main types. Baby alpaca — combed from young animals — runs 18–22 microns and is the most sought-after grade.

Fibre from the Angora rabbit — not to be confused with mohair, which comes from the Angora goat. Extremely fine (11–13 microns), lightweight, and known for its characteristic halo effect. Almost always blended with wool or cashmere rather than used alone, as pure angora lacks structural integrity.

Cashmere combed from the underbelly of the Hircus goat during its first moulting, typically at one year old. Finer than standard cashmere — typically 13–14 microns versus 15–19 for commercial grades — and produced in significantly smaller quantities. Loro Piana (Women's / Men's) is the primary commercial user and labels it explicitly as "Baby Cashmere (Hircus)".

A closely woven fabric with a fine, pebbly texture produced by a broken twill weave. Traditionally used for eveningwear, military dress uniforms, and formal suiting. Typically made from wool or silk-wool blends. Holds a clean drape and resists creasing better than most plain weaves at equivalent weight.

A long, removable stitch used during garment construction to hold pieces in place temporarily before final stitching. In bespoke and high-end RTW tailoring, basting threads are sometimes deliberately left in place — in pockets, vents, and sleeve openings — as a signal of hand finishing. They are meant to be removed before wearing.

A yarn or fabric characterised by loops and curls on its surface, created by twisting together yarns of different tensions. The looped texture gives the fabric a distinctive nubby appearance. Most associated with women's suiting and outerwear; Chloé and Chanel are reference brands for the construction at the luxury tier.

An internal structure in a suit jacket or blazer made from a floating layer of horsehair canvas, attached to the shell by hand stitching at specific points and free to flex everywhere else. The canvas shapes to the wearer's body over years of wear, which is why well-kept canvassed jackets improve with age rather than degrading. Standard construction at the luxury tailoring tier.

A hybrid construction method: fully canvassed through the chest and lapel, fused below the button line. A legitimate and widely used compromise — Canali and Corneliani both use half canvas across much of their range. The chest, where shape matters most, behaves like full canvas. The lower body may eventually stiffen slightly but does not delaminate the way fully fused construction does.

Fibre combed from the soft undercoat of cashmere goats, primarily bred in Mongolia, China, Iran, and Afghanistan. The quality varies significantly based on fibre diameter (measured in microns), staple length, and origin. Grade A cashmere — 14–15.5 microns — is the finest commercial grade. Most mass-market cashmere runs 16–19 microns. All grades are accurately labelled as "cashmere," which is why the brand is a more reliable quality signal than the fibre name alone.

A suiting pattern consisting of wide, soft stripes that appear hand-drawn rather than sharply defined — the visual effect of chalk on a dark ground. Associated with British tailoring, particularly Savile Row. Typically woven on a dark navy or charcoal ground. Wider and softer than a pinstripe.

A fabric characterised by a crinkled or granular surface texture, produced by using high-twist yarns or by a specific weave construction. Can be made from silk, wool, polyester, or blends. Wool crepe is a suiting standard — it drapes cleanly, resists creasing, and travels well. Silk crepe is associated with eveningwear and fine blouses. The texture is a construction property, not a fibre property.

A unit of measurement for the linear mass density of fibres and yarns — specifically, the mass in grams of 9,000 metres of the fibre. Lower denier means finer, lighter fabric. Most commonly used for hosiery, linings, and technical outerwear fabrics. A 15-denier stocking is sheer; a 1,680-denier nylon is used for luggage.

A secondary product line produced by a luxury brand, typically at a lower price point and with reduced construction standards relative to the main line. Examples include Emporio Armani (diffusion of Giorgio Armani), McQ (diffusion of Alexander McQueen), and BOSS (diffusion of Hugo Boss). Diffusion pieces often share branding, packaging, and aesthetic language with the main line but are manufactured differently — different fabrics, different factories, different construction methods.

A fabric woven with two distinct faces — typically two separate layers of cloth bonded or woven together so that both sides are finished and presentable. Most associated with Max Mara's iconic coats, which use a double-faced wool or cashmere-wool fabric. The construction eliminates the need for a traditional lining, gives the garment exceptional weight and structure, and allows clean seam finishing.

A loosely woven wool fabric with a soft, slightly napped surface produced by a finishing process that raises and partially felts the fibres. The napped surface gives flannel its characteristic softness and muted, low-sheen appearance. Heavier flannel (280g and above) is a winter suiting staple; lighter weights (180–240g) work across three seasons. True flannel is all-wool — "cotton flannel" and "brushed flannel" are different fabrics.

A method of structuring a jacket in which the interlining is bonded directly to the shell fabric under heat and pressure, rather than floating free as in canvas construction. Faster and cheaper to produce. Standard at the premium contemporary tier. The adhesive bond eventually breaks down — typically within five to ten years of regular wear — producing bubbling or rippling across the chest that cannot be corrected.

A tightly woven, durable twill fabric with a smooth surface and visible diagonal rib on the face. Originally developed by Thomas Burberry in 1879, primarily for outerwear. Made from wool, cotton, or blends. Wool gabardine is a suiting standard — it holds a crease well, resists moisture, and wears cleanly. It is the fabric of most classic trench coats and many finely tailored trousers.

The number of stitches per inch in a knitted fabric, determined by the needle size and yarn weight used. Fine gauge (typically 12–16 stitches per inch) uses thinner yarn and produces a denser, smoother fabric. Chunky or low gauge uses thicker yarn and produces a more open, textured fabric. Fine-gauge knitwear is associated with luxury production — it requires finer raw material and slower machine speeds.

An open, basket-weave fabric made from wool or wool blends. The basket weave creates a visible, textured surface and produces a fabric that breathes well and resists creasing — which makes it a summer and warm-weather suiting standard. Lighter than flannel or gabardine at equivalent weights. Associated with unstructured and casual suiting.

An inner layer of fabric placed between the shell and the lining of a garment to add structure, warmth, or body. In tailoring, the interlining is the functional heart of the jacket — it determines whether the garment holds its shape. Canvas interlining (full or half) is the traditional method. Fusible interlining, bonded to the shell with heat-activated adhesive, is the modern commercial standard.

A complex woven or knitted fabric in which the pattern is created by the weave structure itself rather than by dyeing or printing after the fact. Produced on a Jacquard loom, which uses a system of punch cards (or, in modern production, digital control) to independently control individual warp threads. The result is a fabric with a pattern woven into its structure — reversible, permanent, and not dependent on surface dye.

A bast fibre produced from the flax plant. The oldest textile fibre still in regular use. Stronger than cotton when wet, breathes exceptionally well, and becomes softer with washing and wear. Wrinkles easily — inherently so, and this is a characteristic of the fabric rather than a condition defect. High-quality linen is produced in Ireland, Belgium, and France; Italian linen is associated with suiting and shirting.

A densely woven, fulled wool fabric originating in the Austrian Alps. Water-resistant due to its high lanolin content and tight fulled weave — not due to chemical treatment. Traditionally in a distinctive muted olive green, though produced in a range of colours. Associated primarily with overcoats and hunting or field jackets. The most recognised loden garment is the Loden coat, with its distinctive fly front and back pleat.

A heavy, tightly woven and fulled wool fabric with a smooth, felt-like surface produced by the fulling process, which shrinks and mats the fibres together. The nap is sheared to produce a clean, matte surface. Associated with overcoats, peacoats, and formal outerwear. Very dense and wind-resistant. Does not drape — it holds a structured shape.

Wool from the Merino sheep, bred primarily in Australia and New Zealand. The finest commercially available sheep's wool — ultra-fine merino runs 15–17.5 microns, fine merino 17.5–19 microns, and medium merino 19–22 microns. Softer and less itchy than standard wool at equivalent weights. Used across knitwear, base layers, and suiting fabrics. The Zegna Trofeo fabric — among the finest suiting cloths available — is woven from the finest Merino fleeces.

The unit used to measure fibre diameter in wool, cashmere, and other natural fibres. One micron is one millionth of a metre. For cashmere: 13–14 microns is baby cashmere; 14–15.5 microns is grade A; 16–19 microns is commercial grade. For merino wool: under 15 microns is ultra-fine; 15–18.5 microns is fine; above 22 microns begins to feel coarse against skin. For vicuña: 12–13 microns — the finest commercially available fibre.

Fibre from the Angora goat — not to be confused with angora, which comes from the Angora rabbit. Lustrous, strong, and resistant to felting. Kid mohair (from animals under six months) runs 23–27 microns and is the finest grade; adult mohair runs 30–40 microns. Used in suiting blends to add sheen and drape, in knitwear for its characteristic lustre, and in pile fabrics for outerwear.

The raised, fibrous surface on a fabric produced by the finishing process of brushing or napping — which lifts fibres above the base weave to create a soft, textured surface. Flannel, melton, and velvet all have a nap. Napped fabrics have a directional surface — the nap lies in one direction, and cutting or pressing against the nap produces a different colour and texture effect.

Small balls of fibre that form on the surface of a knitted or woven fabric due to friction during wear. Caused by loose fibre ends being drawn to the surface and tangling together. Pilling rate is primarily determined by fibre grade — coarser, shorter fibres pill faster because they have more loose ends. Pilling is a surface condition and in most cases is fully reversible with a fabric comb or electric de-piller.

The number of individual yarns twisted together to form a single thread. A two-ply cashmere sweater is made from yarn consisting of two individual strands twisted together. More plies generally means a denser, more durable yarn with better resistance to pilling. Single-ply is more delicate; two-ply is the standard for luxury knitwear. N.Peal (Women's / Men's) and Barrie (Women's / Men's) both produce two-ply cashmere as their standard.

Garments produced in standard sizes for sale off the rack, as distinct from bespoke (made entirely to individual measure) or made-to-measure (standard pattern adjusted to individual measurements). At the luxury tier, RTW is produced to meaningfully higher construction standards than commercial RTW — full canvas, hand-finishing, and higher-grade fabrics are all common in luxury RTW that would be exceptional at the premium contemporary tier.

A lightweight cotton or cotton-blend fabric with a puckered, crinkled surface texture produced by alternating slack and tight warp threads during weaving. The puckered texture holds the fabric away from the skin, improving air circulation. Associated with summer suiting and shirting, particularly in American and British tailoring traditions.

The average length of individual fibres in a batch of raw material, measured in millimetres. Longer staple fibres anchor better within the yarn structure, produce less surface fuzz, and are more resistant to pilling. Short-staple fibres produce softer but less stable yarn. Fine cashmere combines both fineness (low micron count) and length — both matter independently.

A proprietary waterproofing technology developed and trademarked by Loro Piana (Women's / Men's). Applied to the fibre before spinning rather than as a surface coating after weaving, which means the water-resistance is embedded in the yarn and does not wear off with cleaning or use. Used across Loro Piana's outerwear range — coats, jackets, and some knitwear. The Storm System label appears on the interior.

A wool grading system for suiting fabrics reflecting the fineness of the yarn — Super 100s, 120s, 150s, 200s. Higher numbers indicate finer fibres and a tighter, lighter weave. The Super number is calculated from the fibre diameter: Super 100s corresponds to approximately 18.5 microns; Super 200s to approximately 13.5 microns. At Super 150s and above, the fabric becomes increasingly delicate and more prone to wear marks, pulls, and shine from pressing.

A proprietary fabric designation used by Ermenegildo Zegna to identify suiting cloth woven from the finest Merino fleeces selected through their annual Vellus Aureum Trophy competition. Trofeo fabric runs Super 150s and above, selected from Australian Merino flocks meeting strict fibre diameter standards. Suits cut from Trofeo cloth are identified by a secondary label inside the chest pocket.

A rough, unfinished wool fabric woven in a plain, twill, or herringbone pattern, traditionally produced in the Scottish Borders, Ireland, and Harris (Scotland). Characterised by its durability, warmth, and distinctive flecked appearance from multi-coloured yarns. Harris Tweed carries a protected designation of origin — it must be handwoven by islanders at their homes in the Outer Hebrides. Other tweeds do not carry this protection.

A weave pattern in which the weft thread passes over one or more warp threads and then under two or more, producing a diagonal rib or line on the fabric surface. The most common suiting weaves — gabardine, serge, denim — are all twill constructions. Twill is stronger and more durable than plain weave at equivalent weights, and resists creasing better.

Fibre from the vicuña, a wild South American camelid native to the high Andean plateau. The finest natural fibre commercially available — typically 12–13 microns, finer than the finest baby cashmere. The vicuña cannot be domesticated; it must be caught, shorn, and released in the wild. Each animal can only be shorn every three years, producing approximately 200 grams of fibre per shearing. Loro Piana (Women's / Men's) is the dominant commercial user and holds exclusive sourcing agreements with several Andean communities.

The two sets of threads in any woven fabric. The warp runs lengthwise on the loom and is held under tension; the weft is the thread woven back and forth across the warp. The relationship between warp and weft — how they interlace — determines the weave structure (plain, twill, satin) and therefore many of the fabric's properties: drape, strength, stretch, and surface texture.

A proprietary lightweight wool fabric developed and trademarked by Loro Piana (Women's / Men's). Made from the finest Merino fibres, Wish cloth is characterised by its exceptional lightness — it can pass through a wedding ring, which is the brand's demonstration of its fineness. Used primarily in trousers, travel suiting, and lightweight knitwear. The Wish label appears on the interior.

Wool that has been combed to align the fibres parallel before spinning, producing a smooth, strong, and high-sheen yarn. Worsted wool is the standard for tailoring — it drapes cleanly, holds a crease, and resists pilling. Distinct from woollen-spun yarn (used in flannels and tweeds), which is carded rather than combed and produces a softer, less structured fabric.