The fiber content label is your best tool. Loro Piana labels are cleanly printed, specific (they will name 'baby cashmere,' 'vicuna,' or 'cashmere' directly), and include country of origin. Counterfeits exist but are uncommon compared to other high-end brands — the bigger risk is misrepresentation of the fiber tier, where a seller lists something as baby cashmere when it's standard cashmere. Check that the label font is consistent, the stitching is even, and the fabric itself has the fine, slightly matte hand that real LP cashmere has. Vicuna pieces are rare enough that professional authentication is worth the cost.

Standard LP cashmere pills at a rate comparable to other high-grade cashmere — meaning it will pill with wear, but less aggressively than cheaper grades. Baby cashmere pills more readily despite its finer feel, because the shorter fiber length makes it more prone to surface abrasion. When buying secondhand, check the underarms, inner forearms, and any area where the garment contacts a bag strap or coat lining. Light pilling can be removed with a cashmere comb and doesn't affect the garment structurally. Heavy pilling across the body is harder to reverse and should factor into your price.

They occupy similar price points new, but the secondhand proposition is different. LP is more fiber-focused — you're buying the material quality and the construction is clean but understated. Brunello Cucinelli carries more visible brand identity and the aesthetic is more rustic-luxe, which means it reads more distinctly on the resale market (higher recognition, higher pricing). For pure wearability and longevity, LP knitwear is arguably the stronger secondhand buy. For outerwear with more visual presence, BC competes more directly. If you're buying to wear rather than to signal, LP tends to offer more per dollar at current secondhand prices.

Quality has remained consistent at the fiber level — LP controls much of its own raw material supply, which limits the degradation that hits brands relying on outside sourcing. Older pieces from the 1990s and early 2000s are worth buying if the condition is right. One thing to note: earlier pieces sometimes have simpler interior finishing and less prominent labeling, which can make authentication harder and occasionally leads to underpricing on resale platforms. The silhouettes have shifted slightly toward more relaxed cuts in recent years, but older pieces don't look dated in any way that matters.