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Secondhand Luxury at Uncommon Prices

Six live eBay listings, from an $89 Akris blazer to a $268 dress by The Row, and why the gap to retail says less about value than it appears to.

5 Sep 20263 min

Retail price is the weakest number in any resale listing. It records what a brand asked in a controlled environment, not what the garment is worth to the next person who wants it, and a wide gap between the two is as often a sign of a thin market as of a bargain.

The comparison that tells you something is against what the same label and category sell for secondhand, repeatedly, to buyers who know what they are looking at. On that measure the six pieces below split into two groups: houses with deep resale demand, where the discount is modest and dependable, and houses whose customers rarely resell at all, where the discount is enormous and the sample size is one.

Both are worth buying. They are not worth buying the same way.

1
Akris Womens Pinstripe Wool Blazer Jacket 12 Brown Luxury Boxy Crop Old Money
Akris
Akris Womens Pinstripe Wool Blazer Jacket 12 Brown Luxury Boxy Crop Old Money
$89 vs $2,300 retail 96% below
Akris works out of St. Gallen, a Swiss textile town, and sells to a customer who tends to keep clothes rather than list them, which is why the brand surfaces here so rarely. This is a size 12 pinstripe wool blazer in a boxy cropped cut, at $89 against a $2,300 retail figure. Check the shoulder measurement before anything else, because a boxy body forgives a lot and a wrong shoulder forgives nothing.
2
LORO PIANA Storm System Men's Field Jacket Cotton Canvas & Leather Large
Loro Piana
LORO PIANA Storm System Men's Field Jacket Cotton Canvas & Leather Large
$150 vs $4,245 retail 96% below
Storm System is Loro Piana's water-resistant membrane treatment, applied to the house's own cloth, and it accounts for a good share of what outerwear from the brand costs new. The listing gives cotton canvas with leather, size large, at $150 against $4,245. Field jackets are built to take wear, so the question for the seller is the state of the leather rather than the canvas.
4
THE ROW Classic V-Neck Long Sleeve Black Midi Dress Size Medium
The Row
THE ROW Classic V-Neck Long Sleeve Black Midi Dress Size Medium
$268 vs $1,090 retail 75% below
A plain black midi dress is the hardest garment to buy well and the easiest to overpay for, which is close to a description of The Row's business. Size medium, V-neck, long sleeve, at $268 against $1,090. Of the six pieces here it is the one most likely to be worn weekly rather than seasonally, which changes how you should think about the outlay.
6
Jenni Kayne Top White Cotton Linen Qtr Sleeve Button Up Blouse Women's S Luxury
Jenni Kayne
Jenni Kayne Top White Cotton Linen Qtr Sleeve Button Up Blouse Women's S Luxury
$42 vs $233 retail 82% below
Cotton and linen in white is the shortest-lived fabric on this page and the least forgiving of storage. The listing gives a quarter-sleeve button-up in size small, at $42 against $233, a narrower gap than the European labels above because the retail price was never far off. Look at the collar and the underarm in the photographs, where whites yellow before they wear.

The practical step is the same in every case: price the piece against other listings for the same label and category, not against the retail figure sitting in the description. Where nothing comparable is listed, that absence is itself the information, and the condition photographs carry more weight than usual.

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