They are entirely different lines in terms of construction, fabric weight, and fit. RRL uses heavier fabrics, a trimmer silhouette, and workwear-influenced detailing. Mainline Polo is a mass-market product made to a different standard. On the secondhand market they often appear in the same search results but should be evaluated separately. If you are buying for quality and longevity, filter for RRL specifically.

Yes, consistently. 1990s Polo was cut fuller across shirts, knitwear, and trousers. As a working rule, size down one from your current size when buying vintage Polo from this era, and always prioritize listed chest or shoulder measurements over the size tag. The shift happened gradually through the 2000s, so pieces from 2005 onward are closer to current sizing.

Yes, and it is one of the better-value propositions in secondhand tailoring at the moment. Purple Label suits use half-canvas or full-canvas construction and quality fabrics, and they trade on the secondary market at prices that reflect the mainline brand rather than the actual product. A Purple Label suit in good condition can represent genuinely comparable construction to Italian tailoring costing significantly more secondhand. Check for the 'Purple Label' tag inside the jacket specifically, as listings do not always specify.

Focus on the intarsia work itself: authentic examples have clean color registration with no blurring or bleeding at the edges between colors. The knit structure should be even throughout. Tags on 1990s examples should show country of origin (often Hong Kong or Italy for the higher-end pieces) and the Polo player logo should be cleanly embroidered. If the seller cannot provide detail photos of the tag and a close-up of the Bear graphic itself, that is worth factoring into your decision.