The pinch test is the most reliable method available without taking the jacket apart. Pinch the fabric of the chest panel between your fingers and gently work the outer fabric against the lining. A canvassed jacket will allow the layers to move independently. A fused jacket will feel stiff and the layers will move as one. Pre-2001 American-made Golden Fleece suits are much more likely to be canvassed or half-canvassed. Post-2001 production, particularly anything made in China or sourced after the brand changed hands, is predominantly fused.

Yes, consistently, particularly on older pieces. Suits and sport coats from the 1970s through 1990s were cut with a fuller chest and a longer jacket length than contemporary tailoring. A 40R from that era will often fit someone who wears a modern 42R. Shirts run large in the body as well, though collar sizing is generally accurate. The 346 line ran slightly trimmer than the mainline in some periods. Always check the shoulder measurement if it is listed, as that is the hardest dimension to alter.

For suits and tailored pieces, the strongest era is roughly 1970 through 2000. American-made production during this period, often with Southwick involvement, represents the best construction the brand has offered at scale. Post-2001 suits are not worthless, but you are paying for the name rather than the construction. For OCBD shirts, pre-1990s examples with the heavier Oxford cloth and natural collar roll are the target.

For suits and tailored clothing, yes, it is a meaningful signal. American production at Brooks Brothers, particularly before the early 2000s, involved domestic manufacturers with established reputations. 'Made in USA' on a shirt is less decisive, as shirt production moved offshore earlier. The label is a starting point, not a guarantee. Always look at construction details: the straightness of stitching, the quality of the buttonholes (hand-finished buttonholes on older pieces are a good sign), and whether the pattern matches at the seams on a suit.