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Explainer · Denim · Workwear

Why is Double RL so expensive?

27 Oct 20262 min
Ranch-heritage positioning

Ralph Lauren launched RRL in 1993 and named it after his ranch in Colorado. It sits apart from the Polo line, with its own stores and a narrower set of stockists. The whole label is built around American workwear, western wear and military clothing from roughly the first half of the twentieth century.

Selvedge denim and a vintage finish

The denim is the line's centre of gravity. RRL works with selvedge fabrics from both Japanese and American mills, and much of the range is washed, repaired or distressed to look decades old. That finishing is labour-intensive, and it is a large part of why a pair of RRL jeans retails at several times the price of Polo denim.

Vintage-reproduction design

Many RRL pieces are close studies of specific historical garments: chore coats, deck jackets, western shirts, leather jackets. The house is known for period-correct hardware and fabrics that suit the reference. Buyers are paying partly for that research, not just for cloth.

Small production runs

RRL produces in far smaller volumes than Polo, and many styles are not restocked once they sell through. Smaller runs spread fixed costs across fewer garments, which pushes retail up. They also mean a sold-out piece can only be found secondhand.

What happens on the resale market

A high retail price does not guarantee a high resale price, and most RRL resells well below what it cost new. The exceptions are pieces collectors actively hunt: distinctive denim, leather, and jackets with a strong historical reference. Ordinary shirts and chinos tend to drift toward the general Ralph Lauren price level, and that gap is where careful buyers do well.

Comparison with Polo Ralph Lauren

Polo is made at enormous scale and sold almost everywhere, so its secondhand supply is deep and prices stay low. RRL has a fraction of the supply and a more specialised audience. On our valuation process, that difference shows up directly in resale scores.

Which pieces hold value

Selvedge denim and chore-coat style work jackets are the most sought-after RRL categories secondhand, because they carry the house's design signature most clearly. Listings are often filed under plain 'Ralph Lauren,' so search both names. Check the label for the RRL mark, since Polo makes similar-looking workwear at a much lower price.

The rule
Pay for RRL secondhand, not at retail, and pay most for the pieces where the vintage reference is unmistakable. A plain RRL shirt is worth little more than a good Polo shirt, so price it that way.
Browse men's RRL work jackets →